What a chance.
What a break.
A clean break from peril.
I’m in ‘the green room’ – a place I’ve never been; a place that pulls on my courage, ripping at my nerves. It’s a place – a moment – thick with fable and I languish, waiting to be cocooned by an unfurling breaker.
To slice through that tumbling gate of blue salt is as close to holy water as I’ll ever get. The cadence, the rise and fall of my body in the sea so much more than treading water.
Surfboards grate against waves like feet on well-trodden floor boards; my lips crushed pink from a punishing kiss, my voice uneasy, yet spirited with hope.